Monday, May 12, 2008

Moscow Monday 12 May







We arrived in Moscow this morning after 24 hours on the train. We arrived to warm sunny Spring weather so it seems we have moved from Winter to Spring in one week. In Irkutsk it was cold, we wore thermals, the gardens were being prepared but no shoots and no leaves on the trees. As we moved West the leaves gradually becoame apparent on the trees and yesterday the birches were all covered in leaves, people were in their gardens, kids riding bikes and washing on clothes lines.

We have seen villages with small timber houses all the way from the Mongolian border. The houses are unpainted except for blue shutters and sometimes green fences. They are on old Aussie size blocks with large wood heaps, backyards are all garden beds being prepared, often a glass house and/or A frames covered with plastic over garden beds, frames where the plastic seems to be renewed each Spring and various other forms of plastic covering. All made of timber but we have seen only one sign of growing new trees.

But now we are in Moscow the trees all have their leaves, there are tulips in all the parks and people sitting in outside cafes.

We had a tour of the city, Red Square, Victory Park, Churches, Swallow Hill with a view of the city and fantastic university buildings. ((picture later).

While we were wandering around Victory Park - with a memorial and a stature of St George slaying a dragon (He is the patron saint of Moscow) the traffic on a major ring road all stopped. This road goes to the Kremlin and when a member of the goverment needs to go there the traffic is stopped by the police, a police car with sirens goes at an incredible speed along the road and then offical cars drive along much, much faster than the speed limit.

Our small bus was stopped twice by the police to check papers and the vehicle.

We are now staying in a slightly decayed ornate hotel that hosted visiting dignitries, like Maggie Thatcher, in days gone by. The rooms are large with high ceilings, marble staircase, chandeliers etc. I will take some pictures.

This after nooon we were taken an a lesson on using the metro - it was fantastic, crowds, reasonable easy to follow if you count the stations and wonderfully decorated stations.

On the first train a young man asked me if he could help and then told me he had lived in Blacktown for 2 years and worked as a roof tiler. I got a reall buzz from managing the metro and we went to buy tickets for the opera at the Bolshoi Theatre tomorrow night.

We are going to see "Lady Macbeth of Mtsensk" by D Shostokovitch, a cheery tale of course. This may be interesting as only 3 of us have been to an opera before and I am not sure Shostokovitch is what I would choose as an introduction. Stalin hated this opera when he saw it in the same theatre in 1937 and denounced it and the composer.
Pictures are the train to Moscow at Yetkateringburg, tea service in compartment and shoes of Russian women who shared the compartment.

Saturday, May 10, 2008

Yekaterinburg Fantastic Day







We arrived in Yetateringburg after 48 hours on the train from Irkutsk. This was a closed city under the Soviets because of the heavy machinerary and armament factories. It is where Tsar Nicholas and his family were killed in 1917. It is the 4th largest city in Russia, population 1.4 million.
Church of the Tsar Martyrs


We had a full day of sightseeing with a terrific guide who is doing a PhD on Soviet administration in East Germany. We went to a Church that was built in 2001 on the spot where the house stood where the Romanovs were killed. We then went to a monastery outside the city which is still being built on the spot where the bodies were placed in a mine shaft. There is incredible devotion to this family, they were canonised in 1996 by the Russian Orthodox Church. We had to wear head scarves and the women were provided with skirts to wear over our pants.









We then visited the spot where the bodies were eventually found.




We then visited a memorial to the 20 thousand people Stalin sent to the Gulags in 1937/38.

We also visited a stone museum with a great range of precious and semi precious stones.

Finally we visited the spot which marks the border between Asia and Europe. Here the guide produced a bottle of champagne and chocolates. London is still 4865 kms away.


Tuesday, May 6, 2008

Irkutsk




Lake Bakail
















We went to a small village (turning into a resort) Listvyanka, on Lake Baikal. It is in narrow valleys on the lake. The lake is still partially frozen, the water is now about 2 degrees but our local guide and one of our party went for a very brief dip in the water - 1 minute in the water adds a year to your life, 10 minutes ends it. it is very beautiful, we then went to see a church and the Limnology Institute.

Monday, May 5, 2008

Irkutsk - Monday 5 May

We arrived in Irkutsk this morning after train journey of 2 nights and 1 day from Ulaanbaatar.

The trip was uneventful except we were woken at 5.30 when train stopped for border crossing out of Mongolia, toilets were closed and we waited, we were allowed on the station at 7. am and back on train at 8 am - we filled informed, compartment was checked and we filled in more forms. At about 11.00 the train then travelled 20 km to Russian border crossing where toilets were again locked and we filled in more forms, compartment was searched, more forms and passports checked again. We were allowed out on station at about 1.00 when shunting started and this continued until about 3. pm when train finally continued on into Russia.

For all this time there was no dining car on the train but we are getting good at buying food, eating instant noodles and i also had a bottle of vodka. - 'when in Rome.....'

The landscape looked very harsh, the villages improverished with some bigger cities. We passed a large lake Lake Goose which was partialy frozen. I slept well, no dodubt due to the vodka, and woke when we were in forests with some signs of snow.

We had walking tour of Irkutsk - lots of churches being restored, terrific icons and colourful. The statue of Czar Alexander III has also been replaced as he was responsible for the building of the Trans Siberian Railway. The city is a university town with 120 000 students.
There is a saying here - God is near the Czar is far away - hence all the churches.


Tomorrow we go

Saturday, May 3, 2008

Ulaanbaatar - Saturday 3 May







We are now back in Ulaanbaatar, the horse riding did not happen due to fact of no English speaking guide on day 1 and snowing on day 2. However I went for 2 terrific walks up rocky mountains, great views and great training for City to Surf.

Facts learnt about Ulaanbaatar;






  • Pavements are not a priority with local authorities



  • 1.5 m people and 120 000 cars all on road on Wednesday evening



  • Petrol costs about $1.20 litre and average wage is $300 a month



  • There is a Catholic Cathedral designed like a Mongolian ger with priests from Cameroon -



  • This fact is interesting as I am reading The Poisonwood Bible - about Baptist missionary in Congo



  • Mongolia produces beautiful boots, coats and cashmere clothes



  • The Ulaanbaatar version of a public phone is a old woman in the street with phone and satelite dish



  • Australian wine is sold in restaureants and supermarkets



  • There is a whole row of vodka brands in the supermarket



Thursday, May 1, 2008

Snowing in Ulaanbaatar - 2 May






















I am at a traditional ger camp - the one with points to charge mobile phones.and western style toilets and internet.

Fantastic scenery yesterday, all brown, rocky out crops we went for a walk. Today snowing so all white.

Mongolian food is just my thing.